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10 Best Perpetual Calendar Watches for the Ultimate Collector

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10 Best Perpetual Calendar Watches for the Ultimate Collector

A perpetual calendar watch keeps track of the date automatically, accounting for the varying lengths of months and even leap years. 

Considered a sophisticated complication within a timepiece, it eliminates the need for manual adjustments that would otherwise be necessary at the end of a short month. It’s designed to run accurately for years, assuming it remains wound, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship and mastery of timekeeping.

Check out the best perpetual calendar luxury watches, what to consider when buying one, and more in this comprehensive perpetual calendar watch guide.

Top Picks for Perpetual Calendar Watches

Here are 10 of the best perpetual calendar watches every serious watch collector should own in 2024:

1. Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Perpetuel – Platinum, Blue Dial ref. 6656 3440 55B

Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Perpetuel ref. 6656 3440 55B

About

The Villeret Quantieme Perpetuel is a limited-edition luxury men’s dress timepiece. It’s part of the brand’s Villeret collection and offers a more daring take on the series’ mostly gold case-white dial combination. The best part is it has achieved the welcome change without sacrificing the collection’s key design blueprint.

Features

They include applied Roman numeral hour markers, skeletonized leaf-shaped hands, a day-of-the-week subdial with a silver-tone hand at 9 o’clock, a month subdial with a silver-tone hand at 12 o’clock, a date subdial with a silver-tone hand at 3 o’clock, and a leap year indicator with a polished hand located at the center of the sub-dial at the 12 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2019
  • Case Size: 40mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Blue, with silver-tone skeletonized hands and applied Roman numeral hour markers
    • Bracelet – Blue alligator leather strap with a secure platinum folding clasp
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, platinum
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Month, Date, Day, Leap Year, Moon Phase
  • Mechanism: Automatic Blancpain Caliber 5954 movement with 32 jewels, a 72-hour power reserve, a perpetual calendar module, and a 28,800vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

This first perpetual calendar wristwatch is a limited edition watch (to 88 pieces), raising its desirability among most watch collectors. Additionally, its price increased by 25 percent between 2023 and March 10, 2024.

2. Patek Philippe Grand Complications – Rose Gold, Ivory Lacquered Dial ref. 5327R-001

Patek Philippe Grand Complications ref. 5327R-001

About

The Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar is part of Patek Philippe’s esteemed Grand Complications collection. It’s a luxury men’s dress watch that’s an update of the revered and original ref. 3940 piece. It epitomizes luxury and technical prowess, offering a refined aesthetic with its scalloped lugs and applied Breguet numerals.

Features

They include Breguet numeral hour markers, a sapphire caseback, feuille hands, a month subdial at 3 o’clock with a truncated hand indicating the leap year, a day-of-the-week/24-hour subdial at 9 o’clock, and a crescent-shaped moon phase display at 6 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2016
  • Case Size: 39mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Ivory lacquered, with rose gold feuille hands and Breguet numeral hour markers
    • Bracelet – Dark chestnut brown alligator strap with an 18k rose gold Calatrava Cross deployant buckle
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, rose gold
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Day, Date, Month, Moon Phase, 24-Hour Indication, Leap Year
  • Mechanism: Self-winding Caliber 240Q mechanical movement with 27 jewels, a 48-hour power reserve (max), and a 21,600vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

Its price has increased by at least 35% between 2017 and 2023. Its rising popularity predicts a further increase before December 2024.

3. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar – Titanium, Titanium Dial ref. 103200

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar ref. 103200

About

Priding itself as the thinnest perpetual calendar piece in the watch world, the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is a luxury men’s watch that isn’t afraid to push boundaries. It represents the pinnacle of fine watchmaking, offering a sleek monochromatic titanium design with intricate mechanical precision.

Features

They include a retrograde date display at 12 o’clock, a retrograde leap year display at 6 o’clock, a day-of-the-week display occupying the 7 and 8 o’clock positions, a month display occupying 4 and 5 o’clock positions, an octagonal case, and an inner octagonal bezel.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2021
  • Case Size: 40mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Titanium, with black skeletonized hands and long index hour markers
    • Bracelet – Sandblasted titanium, with a folding clasp
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, sandblasted titanium
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Perpetual Calendar With Day Of The Week, Month, Retrograde Date, Leap Year
  • Mechanism: Caliber BVL 305 movement with 35 jewels, a 60-hour power reserve, and a 21,600vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

It is not just a timepiece, but a statement of innovative design and horological mastery, making this ultra-thin perpetual calendar watch a valuable addition to any collection. Additionally, its price has increased by 15 percent between July 2022 and December 2023.

4. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar – Stainless Steel, Blue Dial ref. IW503605

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ref. IW503605

About

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is a luxury men’s dress watch that isn’t called big for nothing. It boasts a larger-than-most case, and joins a long tradition of pilot watches with advanced horological elements. It stays true to the original 1940s case size while adding some modern touches for a contemporary feel.

Features

They include a polished, conical bezel, a deep blue (Le Petit Prince blue) dial, Arabic numeral/index hour markers, a moon phase indicator for northern and southern hemispheres at 12 o’clock, a year indicator between 7 and 8 o’clock, a deeply knurled onion-shaped crown.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2021
  • Case Size: 46.2mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Blue, with SuperLumiNova-coated rhodium-plated hands and Arabic numeral/index hour markers
    • Bracelet – Blue calfskin strap with a stainless steel folding clasp
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, polished, stainless steel
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds, Perpetual Calendar With Date, Day, Month, Year, Perpetual Moon Phase
  • Mechanism: IWC-manufactured automatic Caliber 52615 movement with 54 jewels, a 7-day power reserve, and a 28,800vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

According to WatchBase, its price increased consistently between 2021 and 2022, starting at S$44,246 on April 7, 2021, and increasing to S$48,495 on April 15, 2022 and S$50,253 on July 21, 2022.

5. Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar – Stainless Steel, Blue Dial ref. FC-775N4NH6B

Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar ref. FC-775N4NH6B

About

Want a stylish yet affordable luxury perpetual calendar watch? The Highlife Perpetual Calendar watch is an elegant men’s sports watch that ticks all the boxes. It’s part of the brand’s Highlife Collection and has a barrel-shaped case that’s highly reminiscent of the 70s era.

Features

The main ones are an integrated bracelet with casebands, a blue dial with a matt finish with a globe pattern embossed in the center, a months subdial with a leap year indication at 12 o’clock, a date subdial at 3 o’clock, a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, and a day display at 9 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2020
  • Case Size: 41mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Blue, with luminous silver-tone hands and applied markers
    • Bracelet – Stainless steel, integrated, with casebands and a triple folding clasp
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, polished, stainless steel
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Date, Day, Month, Leap Year Cycle, Moon Phase
  • Mechanism: Automatic in-house Caliber FC-775 movement with 26 jewels, a 38-hour power reserve, and a 28,800vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

Its price increased by 20% between September 2023 and March 12, 2024.

6. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – Blue Ceramic, Blue Dial ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01

About

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is a luxury men’s watch that breaks monotony in RO’s lineup. It’s the first RO piece to come in full blue ceramic. This bold design choice gives it a versatile vibe, with the monochromatic blue hue earning it a spot with a suit and tie while its typical sporty design makes it pair well with a sweater and jeans.

Features

They include an octagonal blue ceramic bezel with eight hexagonal screws, a blue dial with a Grande Tapisserie pattern, a blue inner bezel with a week indicator, a sapphire caseback, a month subdial at 12 o’clock, a date display at 3 o’clock, and a day display at 9 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2022
  • Case Size: 41mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Blue, with a Grande Tapisserie pattern and SuperLumiNova-coated applied white gold hands and hour markers
    • Bracelet – Blue ceramic, integrated, with an AP folding clasp
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, blue ceramic, octagonal, with eight hexagonal screws
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Day, Date, Week, Month, Moon Phase, Leap Year
  • Mechanism: Self-winding Caliber 5134 mechanism with 38 jewels, a 40-hour power reserve, and a 19,800vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

Its price has increased by at least 30% in March 2024 since 2022, indicating a growth in demand for this perpetual calendar model.

7. Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar – Stainless Steel, Silvery White Dial ref. MB119925

Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar ref. MB119925

About

The Heritage Perpetual Calendar is a luxury men’s dress watch that reflects a commitment to fine watchmaking traditions, honoring the timeless elegance of the 1940s and 1950s classic wristwatches. However, it includes modern design codes and even has a new generation movement to meet today’s watch collector’s requirements.

Features

They include a domed sapphire crystal above the dial, applied Arabic numeral ‘12’ hour markers, a skeletonized second-time zone hand, a moon phase and date indicator at 6 o’clock, a month display at 3 o’clock, and a day/24-hour display at 9 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2014
  • Case Size: 40mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Silvery-white, with luminous dauphine hands and Arabic numeral/dot hour markers
    • Bracelet – Gray Sfumato alligator leather strap
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, stainless steel
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Day, Date, Month, Moon Phase, Leap Year
  • Mechanism: Automatic Montblanc Caliber MB 29.22 movement with 77 jewels, a 48-hour power reserve, and a 28,800vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

It maintains its value due to high-quality craftsmanship and brings a sense of legacy and prestige to any collection. Moreover, you can get more for it if you sell it in good condition.

8. Glashutte Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar – Stainless Steel, Silver Graine Dial ref. 1-36-02-01-02-61

Glashutte Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar ref. 1-36-02-01-02-61

About

The Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar is a luxury men’s dress watch with a sophisticated yet minimalistic design. It encapsulates the brand’s commitment to precision by incorporating an easy-to-read perpetual calendar complication, excellently arranged on its neat dial.

Features

Its main features are a Panorama Date display at 4 o’clock, a day aperture at 10 o’clock, a month aperture at 2 o’clock, a leap year display below 12 o’clock, blued poire-styled hands, and Roman numeral hour markers at 12 and 6 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2017
  • Case Size: 42mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Silver Graine, with blued poire-styled hands and black Roman numeral/index hour markers
    • Bracelet – Black Louisiana Alligator leather strap
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, stainless steel, polished
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Day, Date, Month, Moon Phase, Leap Year
  • Mechanism: Self-winding Caliber 36-02 movement with 49 jewels, a 100-hour power reserve, and a 28,800vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

It fares well on the financial front, especially if sold in mint condition. Plus, its price has increased considerably by at least 25% since its introduction in 2014.

9. Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar – Stainless Steel, Dark Emerald Green Dial ref. G0A48005

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar ref. G0A48005

About

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar is a luxury men’s sports watch. It’s a distant relative of the 1979 original, with the only thing they share being the horizontal lines on their dials. However, our watch of choice decided to take a different turn that’s more in tune with most of today’s audience. Its relatively affordable price point is an extra plus.

Features

They include a cushion-shaped case, a dial with a horizontal gadroon pattern, a gently curved bezel, a weekday subdial at 9 o’clock, a month subdial (with a leap year indication) at 12 o’clock, a date subdial at 3 o’clock, and a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2023
  • Case Size: 42.4mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Dark emerald green, with a gadroon pattern and SuperLumiNova-coated hands and index hour markers
    • Bracelet – Stainless steel, with an interchangeable green rubber strap
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, gently curved, stainless steel
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Day, Date, Month, Moon Phase, Leap Year
  • Mechanism: Automatic ultra-thin caliber 1255P movement with 25 jewels, a 42-hour power reserve, and a 21,600vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

Investing in it ensures ownership of a timeless piece that exemplifies high watchmaking skill, with promising value-retention due to its craftsmanship and brand prestige.

10. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar – Pink Gold, Blue Dial ref. 4300V/220R-B509

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar ref. 4300V_220R-B509

About

The Overseas Perpetual Calendar is a luxury men’s sports watch that stands out with its refined aesthetics and technical mastery. It’s part of the esteemed Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and is recognized for its large size, flat design, and substantial bulk that resonates with the modern adventurous male watch lover.

Features

The watch features a Maltese cross-shaped bezel, a bracelet with Maltese cross links, a minute track around the dial’s flange, a months subdial at 12 o’clock, a date subdial at 3 o’clock, a moon phase display at 6 o’clock, and a weekday display at 9 o’clock.

Specifications

  • Production Year: 2019
  • Case Size: 41.5mm
  • Materials:
    • Dial – Blue, with luminous 18K pink gold hands and hour markers
    • Bracelet – Pink gold, with Maltese cross links. Also available are a dark blue calf leather strap and a dark blue Elasto NBR strap
    • Bezel – Fixed, smooth, 18K pink gold, with a Maltese cross shape
  • Function: Hours, Minutes, Day, Date, Month, Moon Phase, Leap Year
  • Mechanism: Self-winding caliber 1120 QP/1 movement with 36 jewels, a 40-hour power reserve, and a 19,800vph frequency

Why You Should Invest?

It’s a respected timepiece that retains and even appreciates in value with time. For example, its price increased by 15 percent between 2023 and March 10, 2024.

Summary

The following table highlights the perpetual calendar watches above, plus their key features, retail, private market, and pre-owned prices:

ModelKey FeaturesRetail PricePrivate Market PricePre-Owned Price
Blancpain Villeret Quantieme Perpetuel ref. 6656 3440 55B• Roman numeral hour markers
• Skeletonized leaf-shaped hands
• Leap year indicator with a polished hand located at the center of the sub-dial at the 12 o’clock
S$103,051S$110,008S$121,450
Patek Philippe Grand Complications ref. 5327R-001• Month subdial at 3 o’clock with a truncated hand indicating the leap year
• Day-of-the-week/24 hour subdial at 9 o’clock
• Crescent-shaped moon phase display at 6 o’clock
S$114,727S$120,103S$125,888
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar ref. 103200• Retrograde date display at 12 o’clock
• Retrograde leap year display at 6 o’clock
• Day-of-the-week display occupying the 7 and 8 o’clock positions
S$79,585S$78,110S$79,995
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ref. IW503605• Moon phase indicator for northern and southern hemispheres at 12 o’clock
• Year indicator between 7 and 8 o’clock
• Deeply knurled onion-shaped crown
S$44,514S$46,500S$41,112
Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar ref. FC-775N4NH6B• Integrated bracelet with casebands
• Blue dial with a matt finishing with globe pattern embossed in the center
• Months subdial with a leap year indication at 12 o’clock
S$13,406S$12,656S$10,290
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01• Octagonal blue ceramic bezel with eight hexagonal screws
• Blue dial with a Grande Tapisserie pattern
• Blue inner bezel with a week indicator
S$706,824S$715,220S$798,517
Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar ref. MB119925• Domed box-style sapphire crystal above the dial
• Applied Arabic numeral ‘12’ hour markers
• Skeletonized second time zone hand
S$24,753S$21,115S$23,900
Glashutte Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar ref. 1-36-02-01-02-61• Panorama Date display at 4 o’clock
• Blued poire-styled hands
• Roman numeral hour markers at 12 and 6 o’clock
S$32,956S$33,400S$14,500
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar ref. G0A48005• Cushion-shaped case
• Dial with a horizontal gadroon pattern
• Gently curved bezel
S$78,911S$79,252S$81,700
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar ref. 4300V/220R-B509• Maltese cross-shaped bezel
• Bracelet with Maltese cross links
• Minute track around the dial’s flange
S$149,728S$160,575S$180,300

Buying Guide

When selecting a perpetual calendar watch, it’s vital to assess several aspects to ensure that your choice is well-suited to your preferences and requirements:

Movement

The movement is the heart of any watch, and this is especially important in a perpetual calendar watch. Prospective buyers should look for a movement that offers reliability and precision. An automatic movement is highly regarded for its mechanical complexity and craftsmanship.

Design

The design of the watch should resonate with the buyer’s style. The aesthetics range from classic to contemporary, so one should consider the dial layout, case size, and materials used. Buyers often seek a balance between elegance and readability.

Brand Reputation

The brand’s history and reputation in crafting perpetual calendar watches can be a significant indicator of quality and value retention. Established brands are known for their attention to detail and innovation in watchmaking.

Features to Consider

The following table highlights some key features to consider as you pick a perpetual calendar watch:

FeatureDescription
Dial InformationClear display of calendar information
Case MaterialDurability and aesthetics of the material
Power ReserveDuration the watch will run without being wound
Water ResistanceAbility to withstand moisture and water exposure
Crystal QualityResistance to scratches and clarity of the cover

Choosing a perpetual calendar watch involves a careful evaluation of these components and features. You should seek a watch that aligns with your taste and that offers the technical sophistication inherent to a perpetual calendar mechanism.

Care and Maintenance

A perpetual calendar wristwatch is a sophisticated piece of machinery that requires diligent care to maintain its accuracy and extend its lifespan. It contains complex internal mechanisms, making regular servicing crucial. 

Here are some simple care and maintenance tips to help you keep your prized possession in top condition:

Routine Servicing

Most manufacturers suggest servicing every 4 to 5 years. Skilled watchmakers must handle the servicing process to keep the watch performing optimally.

Daily Care Tips

  • Avoid extremes: Keep the watch away from extreme temperatures and magnetic fields.
  • Water resistance: Ensure seals are checked regularly, especially if the watch is used in water.
  • Cleaning: Gently wipe with a soft cloth to remove dust and perspiration.

Handling the Set-Up

Familiarize yourself with the correct way to adjust the time and calendar functions to prevent accidental damage. Instructions are typically detailed in the user manual.

Storage

When not in use, the watch should be stored in a dry, temperature-controlled environment. A watch winder may be beneficial for automatic models to keep them running and avoid the need for recalibration.

Handling Issues

Should the watch exhibit any irregularities, such as gaining or losing time, you should take it to a professional for assessment and not open or tamper with it.

FAQs

1. What is a perpetual calendar on a watch?

A perpetual calendar on a watch is a feature that accurately displays the date, automatically accounting for the varying lengths of each month and leap years. This complication is a sophisticated mechanism requiring intricate design and precise engineering.

2. How long does a perpetual calendar watch last?

A well-crafted perpetual calendar watch can last for generations if properly maintained. Its longevity is due to the high-quality materials and expert craftsmanship, making it a timepiece that can function accurately for decades and even be passed down as an heirloom.

3. Why are perpetual calendars so expensive?

Perpetual calendars are expensive due to their complexity, requiring numerous parts and meticulous assembly. High-end materials, the time taken for research and development, and the prestige of the watchmaking brand contribute to their hefty price tags. Their status as mechanical marvels explains the premium cost.

4. What happens if a perpetual calendar watch stops?

If a perpetual calendar watch stops, it would need to be manually adjusted and set to the correct date. Professional adjustment might be recommended to ensure accuracy, as resolving the calendar complication on these watches can be quite intricate.

Final Word

Perpetual calendar watches are a crucial piece of history, one that speaks to the advancements in horology where artistry and engineering converge. Their ability to keep accurate time indefinitely with rare manual intervention becomes a convenience and tribute to the enduring quest for precision and mastery in watchmaking.

Key Takeaways

  • Perpetual calendar watches automatically adjust for month lengths and leap years, reducing the need for manual setting and ensuring long-term accuracy.
  • When selecting a perpetual calendar watch, consider factors like movement reliability, design, brand reputation, and additional features. Regular servicing and careful handling are crucial for maintaining their functionality and value.
  • Perpetual calendar watches, especially limited editions, are valuable investments due to their appreciation over time, appealing to collectors and investors for their rarity and craftsmanship.

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