The world’s first wrist watch is widely credited to Breguet, who crafted a timepiece on a strap for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810. However, Cartier popularized the men’s wrist watch with the 1904 Santos, created for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, often mistakenly dubbed the “first wrist watch.”
Before wrist watches, pocket watches reigned as the world’s first personal timepieces. As for brands, Blancpain, founded in 1735, holds the title of the world’s oldest surviving watchmaker. Thus, while Cartier wasn’t the absolute first, it played a pivotal role in transforming wrist watches into a global phenomenon. Read on for more.
Setting the Scene: Timekeeping Before the Wrist Watch
Before wristwatches, pocket watches were the main personal timekeepers in the watch market from the 16th century through the 19th century. Worn on chains and kept in pockets, they were symbols of status and craftsmanship, produced by esteemed makers like Breguet, Patek Philippe, and Waltham, a company in the United States. They were valued both for practical timekeeping and as heirlooms passed down through families.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, punctuality reflected good manners and professionalism. It was considered polite for gentlemen to discreetly check pocket watches rather than openly display impatience. The rise of railways and industry made accurate timekeeping essential, further embedding pocket watches into daily life.
Even during the pocket clock era, there were early versions of wearable timepieces. As far back as the 16th century, small clocks appeared on bracelets. By the 19th century, jewelers crafted decorative “bracelet watches” for women, blending timekeeping with jewelry.
Wristwatches were long viewed as feminine because bracelets were associated with women’s fashion. Early wristwatches were small and decorative, seen more as jewelry than practical tools. Only in the early 20th century, especially during World War I, did wristwatches gain masculine appeal as soldiers found them more practical for military use than pocket watches.
The Birth of the First Wrist Watch
The creation of the first wrist watch is debated among historians and watch enthusiasts. Three major names come up frequently.
The first is Breguet. Founded in 1775 in Paris, Breguet was a pioneer in innovative horological mechanisms and luxury timepieces for European royalty and aristocracy. The earliest wrist watch reference is a Breguet bracelet watch No. 2639 ordered by Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810. It was designed as an ornamental yet functional piece.
Next is Patek Philippe. Many credit the Swiss luxury brand, which was established in 1839 and renowned for elegant, high-precision watches and catering to nobility, with producing the first modern-style wristwatch in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. It was the first decorative, bracelet-style timepiece, signaling both wealth and modernity.
Last is Cartier, which made the wrist watch popular for men. Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier blended watchmaking and high jewelry artistry, appealing to fashionable elites. Louis Cartier created the Cartier Santos in 1904 for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who needed a hands-free way to tell time while flying, leading to a more practical, masculine wristwatch.
The dispute arises because Breguet’s and Patek Philippe’s creations were one-off commissions primarily for women as jewelry pieces, while Cartier’s wristwatch was among the first designed for practical use by men, doubling as a bold fashion statement. We review the Breguet No. 2639 in detail in the following sections:
The Case
Its case was distinguished by its rare and elegant oval shape, a deviation from the typical round forms of its time. While the exact material and dimensions are unfortunately unknown due to the watch’s lost status, it likely followed Breguet’s refined traditions in horological casing—perhaps crafted in precious metals such as gold or silver, which were favored in that era. The oval form suggests a bespoke approach, tailored for both visual distinction and ergonomic grace on the wrist.
The Dial
It had a silvered dial and displayed the Maison’s hallmark aesthetic: a clear, harmonious layout adorned with slender Arabic numerals in Breguet’s signature style. At the center of its understated elegance were the fine “pomme” hands—likely fashioned from heat-blued steel, as was customary in Breguet’s work—gliding across the dial with precision. The composition balanced functional clarity with classical beauty, encapsulating Breguet’s design philosophy of technical elegance.
The Strap/Bracelet
Instead of a conventional leather strap, the No. 2639 featured a wristlet that exemplified period innovation: it was reportedly crafted from intricately woven human hair interlaced with gold thread or fabric. Such materials were fashionable in the late 18th to early 19th centuries, often reserved for highly personalized or sentimental pieces. This textile-like strap design not only reflected the intimate nature of the timepiece but also illustrated how form and ornament were deeply intertwined in early wristwatch history.
The Movement
Its movement, while not preserved today, was known to be a hand-wound mechanical caliber typical of Breguet’s pioneering engineering. It included a repeater complication—enabling the watch to chime the time on demand—as well as a thermometer, showcasing the technical ambition and multifunctional precision of its design. Though the full specifications remain lost to history, the inclusion of such features positions the No. 2639 among the more sophisticated creations of its time.
The Competitive Landscape
Here are some worthy competitors of the Breguet No. 2639:
1. Breguet No. 160 “Marie Antoinette”
- Maker: Abraham-Louis Breguet
- Period: Commissioned in 1783, completed posthumously in 1827
Comparison:
- Like No. 2639, this watch showcases Breguet’s genius for technical complexity and innovation.
- The Marie Antoinette featured nearly every known complication of its time, including a minute repeater and thermometer.
- Although a pocket watch and not a wristlet, it similarly represents horological ambition and bespoke craftsmanship.
Position: An extreme apex of Breguet’s mastery; No. 2639 shares its DNA in miniaturized, wearable form.
2. Arnold & Son Complicated Watches (e.g., Chronometers with Repeater Functions)
- Maker: John Arnold (England)
- Period: Late 1700s–early 1800s
Comparison:
- Arnold, a contemporary of Breguet, also pioneered marine chronometers and fine timekeeping.
- His complicated watches with repeaters and temperature compensation systems rival Breguet’s for precision.
- However, Arnold’s designs were more conventional in case shape and generally pocket-based.
Position: Technically competitive, though more rooted in marine chronometry than personal wearability.
3. Patek Philippe Early Complicated Pocket Watches
- Maker: Patek Philippe (founded 1839)
- Period: Mid-19th century
Comparison:
- While Patek came into prominence after No. 2639, their early minute repeaters and thermometric complications eventually rivaled Breguet’s style and engineering.
- However, they lacked the experimental flair of wristlet formats in these early years.
Position: Relevant successors that carried the tradition of complication, though not yet bold in form.
4. Vacheron Constantin Early Complicated Watches
- Maker: Vacheron Constantin
- Period: 18th–19th centuries
Comparison:
- Produced high-quality timepieces with repeaters and astronomical indications.
- Their early works were more conservative in styling and casing, but technically aligned.
Position: Aesthetically more restrained; strong on technical elegance, less so on radical form.
5. Jaquet-Droz Automata and Complication Watches
- Maker: Pierre Jaquet-Droz
- Period: Late 1700s
Comparison:
- Known for elaborate automata and early complications, Jaquet-Droz rivaled Breguet’s ingenuity.
- Their mechanical sophistication (e.g., singing bird boxes, automaton watches) overlaps conceptually, though focused more on mechanical theatre than practical wear.
Position: Innovatively competitive but more artistic-mechanical than functional-luxury.
Why Should You Invest?
The Breguet No. 2639 is a historically significant timepiece by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of the Breguet brand and widely regarded as one of the greatest watchmakers in history. Watches personally made or overseen by Breguet carry immense historical and academic value.
Unlike modern watches produced in hundreds or thousands, Breguet’s original works were individually crafted, numbered, and recorded in his archives. No. 2639 likely exists as a one-of-a-kind piece or one of a very small handful.
Finally, early Breguet pieces are anchored in historical value and craftsmanship. Their pricing tends to be more resilient during market downturns, making them a relatively safe asset in luxury collecting.
Pricing & Availability
Due to its rarity, historic significance, and the name “Breguet” attached to it, a watch like the No. 2639 could be valued in the high six- to low seven-figure range, should it ever surface. Similar early Breguet watches—especially ones with complications and documented provenance—have fetched prices between S$500,000 and S$1.5 million at auction. However, in the absence of its physical reappearance, these figures remain speculative.
Unfortunately, Breguet No. 2639 is no longer available for acquisition. It is believed to be lost to history, with no known public record of its sale in recent decades. It doesn’t appear in major auction house archives, and even references to it are rare in scholarly or collector circles. However, the Breguet Reine de Naples collection offers a stunning modern-day alternative for collectors and enthusiasts who admire its elegance and horological heritage.
Final Word
The world’s first wrist watch revolutionized timekeeping, blending utility with elegance. Its invention paved the way for modern watches as practical tools and fashion statements. From royal commissions and everyday wear to the office, it remains a timeless symbol of human ingenuity, craftsmanship, and our enduring relationship with time itself.
Key Takeaways
- The earliest recorded wrist watch was made by Patek Philippe in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. At the time, pocket watches were still standard for men, while wrist watches were seen as decorative items for women.
- The 1904 Cartier Santos, designed by Louis Cartier for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, played a major role in making wrist watches popular with men. The need for hands-free timekeeping in aviation and during World War I accelerated this transition.
- Abraham-Louis Breguet is also noted for creating an early wristwatch for Queen Caroline Murat in 1810, while Swiss firms such as Patek Philippe helped advance the design and technology. The shift from pocket to wrist-worn timepieces was gradual and involved various inventors and innovations.
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